Day 3 ANGKOR WAT

The city streets are surprisingly busy as we drive at some speed to catch the 05.30 sunrise. Motorbikes and tuk-tuks make their way through the early morning gloom and street vendors set up their roadside ramshackle shacks for the coming day.

Thierry had chuckled enigmatically to himself when we made known our wish to see an Angkor Wat sunrise, suggesting to me that either he saw this as an unusual request so soon after we'd arrived (or that it was clear to him that this lot were up for anything). We arrive in plenty of time and join a dawn chorus of busy bleary-eyed exciteable sun-worshippers. I know where I want to be to capture the spectacle (I've done the research) and I elbow my way through a united nations of snappers to take my place lakeside. I'd say it was worth it.

On the way back to the hostel Thierry gives us a potted history of the temples and their significance as a crammer for what is to come later in the day. He has an accreditation from the Cambodian government allowing him to work as a guide and has mapped out a thorough and well thought out itinerary. There are many other temples that we might have visited but we were more than happy with the scope provided. Thierry is very knowledgeable and although his English is not always easy to decipher he is very personable, very enthusiastic and appears genuinely pleased that we are interested in his country of which he is clearly very proud. We would recommend him. He can be contacted at chhoengbunthoeurn@yahoo.co.uk

A BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE TEMPLES:

Angkor Thom 

 The entrance to Angkor Thom 

One of the largest Khmer cities ever built, Angkor Thom is 9 sq km with The Bayon at its centre. 

 The Bayon

The Bayon is made up of many towers and stone faces

Constructed around 1200, The Bayon is for the Mahayana Buddhists the symbolic centre of the universe and the empire of King Jayavarman II.

 Bapuon

 The state temple of Udayadityavarman II (also known as The Unpronounceable One...) dating from 1060.

Ta Prohm

Dating from 12th / 13th centuries, the trees that are intertwined with the ruins give it a special atmosphere.

Phrea Khan

Built as a Buddhist university city in the late 12th century, it has a similar feel to Ta Prohm

After a very full day, although we joke about being 'all templed out' and having 'temple fatigue' (it should be borne in mind that apart from one brief, curtailed, sleep we haven't had much rest during the last 48 hours) we've had a fascinating and thorough insight into a people, their history and culture.

The hostel keeps a book compiled by residents that provides tips and useful snippets of information about the area. Chief amongst these is how best to deal with the hawkers and beggars, particularly children, much in evidence around the sites of interest. It is extremely difficult not to engage with the cutest kids aged from about 3, who look up at you with the biggest baleful black eyes and plead 'One dollar, you buy please mister, I go to school please, one dollar.' If you have a beating heart you want to help. It may seem counterintuitive but by paying them you are helping to keep them out of school as the money is passed to their parents who often rely on them as the main source of income.

We are looking for somewhere for our evening meal and the book recommends the Green Star Restaurant, just around the corner from us. The restaurant helps to provide funds for an organisation that helps to keep kids off the street, The Green Gecko Project http://www.greengeckoproject.org/ so it seems perfect - good local cuisine eaten with a clear conscience. The place is run by an Aussie, Dave, who after visiting the country found that he could not go back to his old life. He quit his job to return to help set up the project. He is very proud of his part in turning around many lives; some of his kids winning national education prizes and going to university. His partner is a pretty Cambodian girl about 30 years his junior so things seem to have worked out for Dave. He is full of anecdotes which although hugely entertaining and informative are doing nothing to quell our hunger or quench our thirst. Eventually he offers us the option of a Tower Of Beer (did I mention he's an Aussie?). By now we are up for the challenge. The Tower contains approximately 12 half litres of lager which comfortably see us through the evening. Although the service is shambolic (the main course arrives without rice which is delivered by motorbike 20 minutes later) we feel we have received a further insight into the country and we turn in tired but fulfilled after a day that will live long in the memory.