DAY 4 SIEM REAP

We'd planned to give Thierry the day off today and, laughably, thought that we might hire some bikes to search out a few temples on our own. We have no problem reaching a consensus that after yesterday's exertions this is not only unnecessary but potentially suicidal.

D has succumbed to a bout of travel tum and T notes with some appreciation and no little concern that it is good of her to 'take one for the team'. By the end of the day I would be Last Man Standing, made of sterner stuff.

I spend the bulk of the day relaxing on the veranda looking out on the street below as the Siem Reapians go about their daily business. Many shops and stalls line the street, mostly brick or tin built shacks or temporary taurpalin-covered frames displaying goods, mostly cheap basic necessities; convenience foods next to recycled mobile phones, motorcyle parts. A shoe shop spreads out onto the road where a barefoot 3 year old plays all day as the relentless traffic rushes past. Tuk-tuks, motorbikes with schoolgirls riding side-saddle, lorries carrying teams of labourers to and from their day's work, pushbikes and pedestrians all vying for position skillfully avoiding each other and the lethal potholes. In our time in Siem Reap we will witness some bizarre and reckless behaviour by western standards which will challenge our notions of Health & Safety: a motorbike pillion passenger carrying a large unwrapped unprotected mirror; a motorbike taking a family of SIX out for the evening with the family dog sitting in a basket upfront; a farmer taking a basket of squealing piglets to market in a basket strapped to his shoulders. We witness just one accident when a few schoolgirls are sent sprawling across the carriageway. Thierry is with us at the time and he finds the incident quite amusing - all he can do is point and laugh!

We have a 3 day pass to Angkor Wat ($40 each) and decide to leave late afternoon to catch a leisurely sunset. We agree a price with 'Bob' one of the tuk-tuk drivers lying in wait outside the hostel. A few kilometres short of Angkor Wat the tuk-tuk goes phut-phut as the engine cuts out. Bob mutters a few Khmer expletives. Was I the only one thinking 'Can he fix it?' Bob finds a reserve bottle of petrol and we're off again.

A few yards farther on he calls over to a roadside petroleum sales executive who wanders over with what appears to be an olive oil bottle from which Bob tops up his tank. We were to learn that petrol stations are a rareity; all vehicles top up from roadside stands selling recycled bottles of petrol and diesel.

At Angkor Wat the central sanctuary is the most significant to the Hindus as it represents the centre of the universe. Ladies are required to be appropriately attired and many tourists are turned back by the modesty cops. The rules are very strict. Unfortunately D fell foul of them yesterday and was yellow carded for a flagrant shoulder display. Today she is covered up. But what's this? She's being referred to the officials again. This time it's a red card for a quite cynical display of bare leg. Rules are rules in any language and she's off! Ah well, she's not missing much - it's only The Centre of the Universe after all.

We hang around for some time waiting to optimise photo opportunities as the sun begins to set. (OK, everyone hangs around for me while I wait to optimise photo opportunities as the sun begins to set...)

We finally catch up with Bob and discuss where to go for our evening meal. Bob insists that he must take us to his favourite restaurant which is 'the best in town' and features traditional dancing girls, the Apsara. We decline as we had spotted a really nice restaurant just around the corner from the hostel. Bob is not happy and insists that his choice is better but we are not to be persuaded. Bob drives off in a bit of a strop. Our decision is vindicated as we have a fabulous meal at Viroth's Restaurant in Wat Bo Street, set in pleasant surroundings it's a cut above anything else available in town. You pay Western prices but it's a real treat. The perfect end to the day.